Jul 9, 2010 - Repair and troubleshooting information for the Suzuki FA50 Moped. My son was having trouble with his new 150cc, I tried everything I knew. Eagle 150 Scooter Manual. Ebook Eagle 150 Scooter Manual currently available at www.psychd.co for review only, if you need complete ebook Eagle 150. This service manual covers the 50cc and 150cc GY6 Engine used in. Scooter you are attempting to repair for any specifications that may differ from this service.

1. 50cc Scooter Troubleshooting

Total gibberish. I have a 150MC2 Powermax150 and nothing matches. Alludes to oil dip stick inside trunk. Alludes to a different engine and transmission oil change schedule. ONLY found one place to check oil and add oil.

Did NOT find separate provision for transmission oil. Need help on proper oil for engine/transmission. How to change gear oil???

I USED SUPER PREMIUM 103, BUT ADDED ONE OZ OF MARVEL MYSTERY OIL TO GAS. I used 5-30 Royal Purple Pure Synthetic to top off oil (it was about a pint low before startup).

All the information you would ever need is online, just search for chinese 150cc scooter '.' There are videos on youtube that will show you how to do most anything. I purchased my scooter PowerMax 150, at 360powersports in Arlington, they have two locations for sales, and one for repairs. Great service, great people, they went out of their way to make sure I was very happy with my purchase.

And so far, after a couple of minor issues, I have a great scooter, and a great team to help me fix it if I can't.This iis my third Tao Tao scooter, had no help on the first two. Having a dealer that knows how to work on these scooters make all the difference in the world. If you need help call Sunny at 360powersports.com. I must ask why buy it if you don't know how to work on something so simple? And as far as a manual, they're pretty much the same bike! Everyone is almost the same as the other,but either way you can't beat these for the money, I love mine, I check the bolts after every ride, I've got 600 miles and have changed the oil three times already until I stopped getting chunks of metal in the filter, every time I hit the button it fires just like a Honda,it is what it is and that is cheap so expect a few minor issues,I changed the CDI plug and wire first thing to a racing set I got at Amazon for $9 and all of their parts are cheaper than the dealer I bought it from.

. May 2, 2017.

April 2, 2017. October 24, 2016 This guide covers almost any of the 150cc buggies, scooters, or ATV’s with the standard “AC” CDI setup. The first version was downloaded over 136,494 times and we’re happy that this information continues to help so many people!

Getting started: How it all works The 150cc GY6 ignition system is fairly easy to troubleshoot in the case of malfunction. There are 4 major components that work together to produce spark, if any of these are defective spark will be lost. What we will be doing here is troubleshooting these ignition parts starting at the source, and working towards the spark plug. Major Ignition Components. Stator (6th winding and trigger pickup module).

CDI unit. Ignition coil. Spark plug Troubleshooting instructions and diagrams further down this page.

$39.99 and done. 60-day electrical warranty. Shipped same-day for fast delivery Proceeds from kits help us continue to provide popular FREE GY6 guides and repair advice, thank you for your support! To diagnose your ignition system, you will need to do each of the steps in this article, in sequence.

Basic GY6 Diagram Before getting started, take a look at this diagram. Although there are many differences in wiring between models, most GY6 ignition systems work the same as shown in this illustration. You’ll want to come back to this for reference throughout the guide. CDI Pinout Diagram We’ll stick our CDI pinout diagram right here so you’ll have access to it for the steps below. FIRST STEP: BYPASS YOUR SWITCHES A very common cause of no spark is a defective ignition or kill switch.

Before beginning to troubleshoot ignition problems, it is best to bypass the switches. How to bypass your switches. Create a jumper wire from pin #4 directly to a good grounding spot on the engine. Being very careful not to deform or break the pin, remove the #5 wire from the CDI plug at the harness. This can be done with a sharp narrow tool like an ice pick or stiff paper clip. Looking from the front of the plug, you will see small metal tabs on each pin which secure them to the plug.

Push the tab down and the pin will release. Don’t use force here. TEST 1: STATOR.

Note the wrapped ignition winding, and trigger module Ignition Winding: Depending on your stator type, you have either 6, 8, or 11 windings. Of these windings, one is dedicated to supplying the CDI with ignition power.

This winding is usually wrapped in white cloth material and sealed over with clear epoxy. Trigger pickup: A simple type of crankshaft position sensor. Sends a signal to the CDI to let it know when to send fire to the plug. Troubleshooting the Stator:. Set your multimeter to read in VOLTS “AC”. Locate and disconnect the Black/Red and Blue/Yellow wires coming from the stator, where they plug into the main engine harness. (These are both bullet-style connectors).

While cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage coming from the Red/Black (CDI power wire) and the Blue/Yellow (trigger wire) coming from stator. Place the black lead of multimeter on a metal surface of the engine while using the red lead on the tips of the wires. There should be between 20vAC 100vAC coming from the CDI power wire (Black/Red), although much lower voltages will still be able to produce spark. There should be at least 0.05vAC coming from the trigger wire (Blue/Yellow).

Write the voltages down and continue to the next step. Minimum values: Stator output: 20vAC minimum Trigger output: 0.01vAC minimum STEP 2: THE CDI UNIT. Typical GY6 CDI Box The CDI Unit is powered by the AC current coming from the wrapped stator winding. This current is stored in a capacitor within the CDI unit.

When a signal is received by the trigger pickup passing over the flywheel magnet, the CDI will discharge the stored energy into the wires leading to the ignition coil. Troubleshooting the CDI:. Ensure your multimeter is set to read in VOLTS “AC”. Just like before: while cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage at the two primary wires of the ignition coil. Connect your back multimeter lead to the black ground wire at the coil, and with the red lead to the lighter color wire (usually blue or purple, but it varies). At this step we are checking to see exactly what the CDI is outputting. Write the voltages down and continue to the next step.

Minimum values: CDI output: Can be 5% to 30% less than the output from the stator. The minimum we have seen working is around 18vAC. STEP 3: THE IGNITION COIL.

Black is neutral, green is input from the CDI The function of the ignition coil is to multiply the voltage of the power supplied from the CDI, and to send the multiplied power to the spark plug. Troubleshooting the Ignition Coil: Check for 0.1 ohm 1.0 ohm across the two primary coil terminals. This isn’t exactly definitive, as we have seen working coils with 0.0ohms resistance. The best way to tell if the coil is bad is to perform steps the steps above. If there is still no spark, the coil is likely bad.

STEP 4: SPARK PLUG. Check for proper plug gap! The plug is very rarely the cause of no spark on the GY6.

If the plug is fouled or cracked it may not spark. Ensure that the spark plug is gapped properly.Recommended spark plug gap: 0.6mm 0.7mm (0.23″ 0.27″) Was this guide helpful? Please consider supporting this article and our efforts to provide the best technical support to the GY6 community. You can purchase our directly from our online store to ensure that more Tech Center guides like this one continue to be published. I am pulling my hair out with a no spark problem.

I have replaced the CDI with the better one and motor ran ok for about 4 starts. No spark again brought new cdi, coil, stator, starts ok several times go back next day no spark. Brought new cdi basic model, regulator,coil, measured all AC voltages 80v from stator out put, 0.3v from stator trigger, 30v from cdi out to coil. All good at this point, connect the coil no spark and no voltage to coil.

Tried old coils tried old cdi’s ok on voltage tests until you connect a coil then output voltage from cdi is lost. Re checked the wiring which had not been altered from when it did run to find the earth wire was on pin 3 instead of pin 4 so change this. Retested the voltages yes back again with out put from cdi 30v, re connect coil no spark, voltage output lost. Back with a fresh approach today, the Gods are with me. I disconnected the regulator tested all voltages yes there back. Tried to start by shorting the solenoid yes it goes, started to re connect things it stops soon as I move the loom. Found the problem.

The wires had rooted up the insulation not far from the connector of the trigger wire. Makes sense now as testing with a digital voltmeter little to no current is drawn but soon as I connected the coil and drew current the lead would go open circuit and stay that way until next day when all cooled and probably one hair wire made contact. Cut back the wire, new connectors all wiring re connected runs like a beauty. Yes the gods were on my side today, one to put in your dairy. Meggering out the individual wires say on 500v would have shown this and also a good way to check if your earth is good and not corroded, that’s if you have access to a megger or electrician friend.

Cheers Peter. We have replaced the cdi, stator, pick up, coil, And replaced ALL the pin connectors.

I get correct ac voltage at cdi power, trigger wire, and cdi output. But when I hook up the coil there is no longer Any output from cdi, and no spark. Replaced the cool twice, still same problem Replaced cdi with 2nd new one, still same Output ac voltage from cdi to coil peaks at 50 Then drops down. Is it supposed to maintain voltage? Why no spark???

Ahhhhhhhh Everything is working according to your flow chart, (thank you btw), Except no spark. Replaced coil. Shorts through the rectifier on these models aren’t very common; the problem is likely a wire connection having unraveled and is now touching a metal surface.

I need a bit more information to be able to help. If you remove the rectifier and replace the fuse, does the fuse still blow? When does the fuse blow? When you turn the key, or as soon as the rectifier is connected, etc) Something easy to check is to see if your battery is connected in reverse. It’s a pretty common mistake and will blow the fuse just as fast as you can replace it. Admittedly, I’ve reversed the leads more than once before.

If this is the case, there will be no permanent damage. Correct the leads and replace the fuse and you should be good to go.

Bill, are you using a digital multimeter to test your stator, or is it an analog type (with needle)? I ask because if you are using an analog type, the very small amount of voltage from the trigger wire may not be noticeable. The stator test might appear to be reading 0v, but in reality the trigger module could be fine. The reason this is the case is because the trigger wire sends a burst of voltage once per RPM that is only 10ms in duration (10 one-thousandths of a second).

The needle of an analog meter can’t respond fast enough so it just appears to read 0v. Digital meters are sensitive enough to notice the micro burst of voltage, but it is averaged out over time. So you end up with a reading of around 0.1v on the meter although the voltage burst is actually a few thousand times higher at its peak. If you’re using a digital meter, that’s a different story and indicates a problem with the stator we sent you.

Please reply and we’ll go from there. Gerald, Your two problem areas seem to be pins 1 and 6. From your numbers, it appears that your original stator was bad. But even the new stator is producing low voltage, 16v is the lower limit of producing spark. Is your battery fully charged? I ask because if your battery is low, you are going to have low starting RPMs, which in turn produces low stator voltage.

Try charging your battery overnight on a trickle charger (1 to 1.5 amps) and take another reading. Now about the 0v on pin 1, that will prevent your spark for sure. I recommend this: 1. Read the comment above yours about how the trigger wire/circuit works. Disconnect the blue/white wire from the stator. Use your multimeter to take a reading directly from this wire, stator side. Reply here with your new readings.

It sounds as if you have a short in the wiring harness. The switch is fine. Are you familiar with how to use a multimeter? If not, let me know.

If so, see below: 1. Turn your key to the on position. Check which post and wire of your brake switch has constant 12v with the key ON, this is your power lead. What we’re really after is the other lead of brake switch, mark it. From here on we’ll be focusing on this marked lead, and ignoring the power lead 4.

Set your multimeter to read resistance (ohms). Check the marked lead for resistance to ground. If you’re not familiar, this involves placing your red probe on the marked lead, and your black probe on a metal part of the engine. The valve cover is best. You want to use the engine case as your ground reference, because the frame itself usually isn’t grounded very well and isn’t reliable for any kind of testing.

50cc Scooter Troubleshooting

Let me know your resistance number, and we’ll move on to the next step. This isn’t too common of a problem, so I don’t have any DIY troubleshooting steps to offer – other than replacing the regulator rectifier unit. If you’d like to send your rectifier in first I’d be glad to test it for you so you’ll know its condition before investing money in parts. Questions: 1. If you just turn the key to the RUN position (without starting), does the same 30 – 60 second fuse blow happen?

What model number and year (if you know) is your Twister Hammerhead? Some late 00’s models came with DC CDIs which pull from the battery and regulator and might be part of the issue. Ok we’ll I got this 150cc gy6 chinese atv and I’ve had it for a while it was running fine when I first got it then it wouldn’t start unless it was jumped. It wouldn’t start automatically like it should. So it sat in my garage for about two years and now it won’t start. It turns but no start. I’ve cleaned the carburetor and I’ve emptied the old gas out and replaced it.the spark plug seems to be good.

When I plug up the battery it automatically tries to start but won’t I don’t know why this is please help. I followed your troble shoot guide for the no spark problem. Oh I have a Baja 150 with a Howhit motor.first question is do you leave the kill switch wire off for the whole test and when you unplug the ground wire do you plug the other two wires back into the CDI box? Next I ran the test with # 5 wire off and # 4 for the stator readings are blue yellow wire.196v red and black 61.1v. Pluged the # 5 wire in for the CDI frist reading 1.050 unpluged 42.6. Coil test.7 omi.

I still don’t have spark HELP. Hi Folks, I have a variation of this problem. Buggy starts and idles fine. However, above idle, it misses and makes no power.

Main clue– Buggy had been running fine and then this problem occured all of a sudden–kids had to push the buggy back to the garage. Not a fuel or carb issue–took it apart and was whistle clean–sprayed jets out with cleaner anyway. Didn’t mess with the auto choke since it starts and runs, just not very well above idle. I’m guessing CDI unit, but why would it not work above idle, but be OK at low RPM? Hi, I just brought home a GY6 powered scooter (velocity mp150-7) with an ignition problem (no spark).

It was some one else’s project that they gave up on. They replaced the pick up, the coil and the cdi unit. I performed the tests as you outlined. The stator ignition coil puts out about 70 VAC. The pickup puts out 2.2 VAC. Those sound good.

The coil reading was.003 VAC. That sounds bad. One other thing, the first time that I tested the stator ignition coil, it was still connected to the cdi unit, and the VAC reading was much lower, is that normal?

I have a tank urban racer de 150 gy6 I notice the stator is bad. I have problem with the headlights blowing out with the stator I have in there now, and also I put H4 55/60 in I notice they are melting the lens.

The rear running lights are very dim and the indicator lights are blown. Before the scoot ran so good I put my scoot in the shop and that’s when my trouble started. They cut the coil wire from the wiring harness that go to the cdi, and ran them straight to the cdi. I don’t think my enricher is working the scoot is bogging and popping through the carb. Can you help thank.

Tao Tao AT125-F ATV. I have replaced the CDI on this unit 3 times. It starts and runs for about 10 minutes then dies and i lose all spark.

Originally I was told I had a bad ground in the system. Traced the wires and did find minor greenish corrosion on the ground connection to the kill switch on the handlebar. I cleaned this off, used dielectric grease and reconnected. Replaced the AC CDI and rode for 5-7 minutes then it died again.

– Battery is fully charged – turns over easily – no spark at the plug when grounded against the motor i was told the charging system could be doing this. I don’t see that in your troubleshooting.

Is that a myth? I just found this troubleshooting guide and will go through it step by step this weekend.

But wanted to get some feedback if any of the steps are avoidable due to the symptoms. Please respond! Stator checks CDI power appears to be okay. No reading on trigger. Although, my stator wire bundle is 100% within a block – I have no bullet style plugs. Also, I have no blue/yellow wire. I have blue/white or solid yellow.

When i opened up the case, despite the seal, the timing chain showed signs of corrosion. Is the stator capable of getting wet? If I replace the CDI it runs for about 7-10 minutes. Is it fried or only more sensitive to lower voltages?

This entire problem began 15 minutes after my son washed his ATV. Hi Marsharo, The charging and ignition systems are separate, although I have seen some cases of a bad rectifier inexplicably preventing spark. To eliminate this as a possibility, disconnect the rectifier. Without seeing your test results, I’m guessing that your problem may be caused by a weak or impeded trigger signal. Weak trigger has been shown to cause a heat buildup inside of the CDI. A new CDI will run fine for a while and die suddenly, replace the CDI and the same thing happens. Usually leaves a pea-sized bump mark in the back of the CDI casing where the internal capacitor is located.

I NEED HELP!! Which wires are left over?

If you could upload pictures of your progress that would help. Try contacting the seller of your engine to see which type of stator came with that engine, hopefully they will be able to tell you. If not, reply back here and I’ll help work out which version you have.

The ignition system should all plug in for your scooter without having to modify anything. Plug in the stator, CDI, ignition coil, solenoid, and starter switch and you should be able to start the engine. Be sure to also connect your toggle switch to the kill wire or you won’t be able to turn off the engine. I recently replaced the Stator CDI and Coil and still no spark. I used the multimeter at the CDI power from Stator and test 67V.

Triple checked the stator and can’t see an issue. I have a Subaru Robins engine that runs great and I got the same output when I tested it. So assumed this is at least enough to get spark, if not run lights. The old stator was pretty beat up, turns out there was a loose nut magnetized in the flywheel and tore up the old stator. The new one is a 6 pole setup just like the previous. Obviously the 6 pole worked originally before I bought it but then was damaged before I got it.

I have nothing hooked up besides the CDI and coil. I then checked the CDI to ignition coil positive and get nothing at all. Tried it with the new CDI and the old CDI. Pulling my hair out.

Thank you for the troublshooting guide. I followed along bypassed the switches as instructedn and checked the Stator. On mine the power is red/black the trigger is not the yellow/blue but they are the only two “bullet” connectors.

When cranking the AC volts are between 3 and 13. I believe it did jump to 23 once or so but mostly around 3 to 13 vac. Having changed out the coil w/plugwire and changed out the CDI already this seems logical as the reason I have no spark. What is the right Stator?

I have a GY6 clone the Super-Bee. Thanks to this guide I found out the Stator was not producing a correct voltage so I ended up replacing the CDI, Coil/Plug wire, spark plug and the Stator. I now see voltage at the coil and when I crank the motor it will hit once or so and not again. It seems to hit right when I push the start button.

While cranking once or twice it almost started. I get backfire once in a while.

In my mind, from limited experience with other engines, this seems to be a timing issue however I am not sure since the CDI is the brains. I went back and took the flywheel off again and verified I had installed things correctly and checked all the voltages again and they looked good. Around 100VAC at coil. Trigger voltage is 0.10VAC Thinking I could have a fuel issue I have checked the filter and also used starting fluid with no success. So, could I have a bad CDI? Should I clean the carb?

Is there other electrical parts to check? I am needing advice on what to do next. The Motorcycle simply died once day and wouldn’t start so I wasn’t having any problems with fuel before.

Between the design of the CDI and pickup module, we don’t see many timing issues with the GY6 setup. Actually, I can’t recall a single confirmed example of a confirmed problem with ignition timing over the years. In nearly every case of a bad ignition part, spark is just gone or intermittent (but still in time). I believe you’re on the right track with cleaning the carburetor, especially if it’s been sitting a while. Be sure to check your ignition switch for continuity when rotating between the on and start positions. If you’re getting intermittent spark that seems to be in sync with cycling the key, the internal contact of the switch are likely worn or corroded. I am want to avoid taking things apart that don’t need it.

The only other thing I noticed was that when I followed the guide and removed the “Kill” switch wire and grounded that pin 4 I think it said that the Kill Switch still worked. I wonder if my wiring is not typical and I somehow damaged the new CDI. I don’t know.

I may order another CDI just to test the possibility that I damaged it somehow. As for taking the carb off well that looks scary.

I suppose I should get over that. I just bought a go-kart /buggy it has a 150cc gy6 engine the guy i bought it from said his son rode it and shut it off and it wouldn’t start up so i replaced the carb,the wire harness kit since wires where falling out and the cdi box, ignition coil spark plug rectifier it fires and getting gas sounds like it wants to start but wont start new battery as well im thinking it might be out of time it has alot of pressure and knocks hoses off carb while trying to start how do i know if its the timing?????? Any help would be awesome.

I had a similar problem on my Baja Dune 150. (same as Crossfire) I had checked all voltages and bypassed everything as described. I even replaced all the electrical parts hoping for some luckNo Luck. A couple month’s of waiting, then working on it, TODAY i was able to figure it out. It was my KEY SWITCH. I know they mentioned the kill switch and mine was fine.

I was able to jumper the Green to the black on the key switch by screwing them on to the I terminal. This will always be hot and you can only turn off engine using the kill rocker switch. I am so exited, this has plaque me for a while.

So it sat broke and my kids were bummed because they had to ride the other POS. You can trouble shoot the key switch with a multi meter. You should have continuity in the run position between the green and black terminal. Good luck I hope this also solve someone else s problem. Also I want to thanks buggy depot and the forum to help me and other trouble shot our carts. I just got a 2008 mp150b scooter.

It won’t crank at switch But will jump start and kick start. Idles for a few seconds and dies. Changed fuel lines and back lines with new gas. Just don’t have power at switch. When it cranks for few sec,the kill switch will kill it. Know Carb may need rebuilt or replaced.

Just the start or any ideals on what to do. Never have had or worked on one.

I just don’t won’t to do anything to burn wires or hurt the scooter. The scooter has 14 miles on it and crashed. Didn’t hurt bike But never been road sence. My name is Randy and I need help.

I have what I believe is a Hammerhead 150 with F/R and twin chain. Was all working fine when I got it then the starter clutch destroyed itself. Fitted a new clutch, engines turn fine now but wouldn’t start.

Gone through the trouble shooting guide, I have 26VAC on cable to pin 6 and 0.22VAC on cable to pin 1. I have 0 resistance to ground on cable to pin 4 and I have proved that the ignition takes the cable to pin 5 open circuit and back to ground(also checked this didn’t change during cranking). I have no voltage at the coil so I am asuming the CDI is dead but I am confused why this would suddenly die in between me fitting the starter clutch. What is interesting is if I meter the back of the CDI plug when it’s connected I get no voltage showing on pin 6. Again I guess this points to the CDI.

Are they a common failure? I’m concerned I’ve missed something. A new CDI and coil only cost less than £15 so I will order them. Regards Carl. A friend got a Diamo Velocity 150 that refuses to fire. We are tearing into it trying to locate the problem. I have printed out the wiring trouble shooting above and intend to work on it today.

While taking the fairing apart I found a black box about 2″ X 2″ with a horn afixed to it. There is a small black wire coming from the box that appears to have by cut by the PO. Can you tell me what this box is and will it keep the scooter from firing?

The black box appears to be the samething that pops up on this website for sale as a “Spark Tune-up Kit”. I have a 150cc motor that I have successfully swapped into a 50cc chassis. When I got the engine I floor tested it and I had to replace the pick up. Then it ran, after the swap I rode it a few times. I rode up in to the garage and shut it down. The next time I went to it the battery seemed dead (new battery). So I charged it up.

Then no spark. I am a mechanic, but we all get stumped and all data don’t cover gy6 engines. Anyway No Spark. I have good voltages all the way to the coil with the coil unplugged. As soon as I plug the coil in its all lost. Whats up with that? CDI not producing under load?

Or a BS short somewhere? Ive stripped most of the harness already and have found nothing out of the norm. Ok, I’m ready for some help. 🙂 Engine won’t start on a MotoBravo Paparazzi. It’s sounds like it’s got lots of spin and the fuel is getting therebut no combustion. Starter is New.

Fuel is entering the carb. Lines are New. Stator replaced and spins.

Red/blk from stator (New) = 60VAC, blu/ylw = 6.5VAC Ignition Coil (New) = 30VAC, 0 ohms (analog). CDI is New Spark Plug (New) = gapped to.6mm Notes: my yellow wire coming off the stator harness is grounded and gets hot when trying to start.

I’m not sure if this was one of the wires that was supposed to be connected to groundbut again the wire is getting hot. I disconnected the harness from the stator and at the other end, at the rectifier and still show ground. So, maybe it’s in the plug?? Hi, Great site! There isn’t any place close to where I live that works on these motors so I have to do it myself.

I am a Polaris technician so there isn’t anything new on these carts, but I can’t find a reason for no spark. The starter clutch wore out an I replaced it, now no spark.

I have.252 vAC at #1 / 29.7 vAC at #6 / direct ground at #3 / full continuity at coil from #2 / 0 vAC at coil. Kill at ignition switch has been bypassed.

The #5 is empty. The kill for the engine is by grounding #1 at ignition switch. I’ve tried 3 new cdis and no spark. Below is the vehicle information. Can the stator be installed 180 deg out (upside down) cause this?

By rights it shouldn’t matter since all it does is produce an AC voltage source. Kinroad XT150GK-2 buggy 6 pole a/c stator/cdi. Yes it would matter but I don’t think it’s possible because the key way would not be correct and would not allow you to put the stator on. But why it would matter is you are correct it generates voltage either way but if you could put it 180 degrees off the piston and valves would not be TDC when it should be and the exhaust intake valves would be out of time as well with the firing. But I don’t see any way to put it 180 degrees out.

Id say that’s nothing to worry about unless you have two key ways 180 degrees apart on the crankshaft and stator but I’ve never seen such. I have a similar issue, i checked the 2 wires that plug into the back of the coil when cranking it and i get pulses from 1318v so i replaced the coil with a stock one thinking that was the issue, nogo. I pulled the plug out and it doesnt have a terminal nut on it, its a ngkcr7hsa i replcaced the stock one around a year ago, and was running fine, i dont remember if it had a terminal nut and if i am having an issue because of this missing, the ngk doesnt seem to want to stay clipped in the boot as i tried to plug the ngk into the boot with the plug out of the motor. I have a cg 150cc engine I am installing in a home built buggy. I wired every ting and had no spark. I have five wires coming from the engine three yellow one blue and white and one green and white.

The blue and white I assume is the trigger wire and it has 0.05vac The green and white the power to the power to the c.d.i. I assume has less then one volt ac. The three yellow have only 2vac coming from them. This is a brand new out of the crate engine. Did I get an engine with a bad unit? Is there any other test I can perform to pin point the problem?

Any information would be grateful. Thank you for your time and have a great day. Where or what pin are you putting the ground on? Also where is your ground coming from? I had a problem once thinking my frame was grounded but it wasn’t or not very well at least. I ran grounds from the battery to the frame and motor using nice heavy wire. Solved my ground issue.

Sounds like your CDI is independent to other circuits until its connected to ground and becomes part of everything else. So make sure the kill switch, key switch, and possibly the brake switch are either out of the circuit, or properly connected and positioned for starting.

Ie brake applied, trans in neutral etc. Make sure your not using the kill switch of the cdi as ground, that’s for shutting the darn thing off. If that’s the case its working perfectly 🙂.

Frist I have replaced the following parts 1) Stator 2) CDI 3) Regulator 4) Spark plug 5) Coil Using the wiring Diagram I have made my own plugs and disconnected all other wires. I have the ground from the battery going to the frame and the engine with new wire and connectors and cleaned contact locations. Verified with ohm meter,01 ohm for ground contacts. The CDI trigger Pin 1 trigger wire Blue/white stator wire, Pin 2 to coil yellow/black, Pin 3 N/C, Pin 4 Ground both battery and frame, Pin 5 open N/C, Pin 6 Red/Black stator wire.

The voltage regulator is not connected DISCONNECTED Voltage at the red/black stator wire not connected to CDI is 110 v AC Voltage at the Blue/White stator wire not connected to CDI is 300 mv New Coil resistance very low less than 1 ohm Old Coil resistance same less than 1 ohm With the red/blk wire and the Blue/white re- connected to the CDI the measured coil voltage output is 18v AC Voltage at COIL is 18v AC when measured across both ( Volte meter leads one to each connector at the same time) Why is the voltage so low. Tested with OLD CDI and received the same readings. NO Spark at PLUG Question does the Voltage regulator have to be connected? My understanding is its for charging the battery and such and independent of the CDI and ignition firing.

Now before when it did fire I had the stator red/blk wire going into the Voltage regulator on the red wire pin ( normally the red pin is the battery input to the voltage regulator) So I had a Y connection on the red/blk stator wire one to the CDI and the other to the Voltage Regulator but it would spark and run. But the battery would not charge before. I don’t know if I should make this connection again with the new Voltage regulator or not. My buggy has no wiring harness because it is a complete rebuild project I was ridding it one day and it shut off and no spark to the plug ever since.

So where did I go wrong either now or before? I totally agree with your wiring diagram! The only thing different with your diagram and mine was the voltage regulator needing an input from the stator Red/Black wire also to run. But again that doesn’t seem right because the voltage regulator and the cdi are to different circuits and it should not effect the CDI if the VR isn’t even hooked up at all. I’m lost now don’t know what else to try. I have compression so the timing chain is good (CAM) is working) Battery is fully charged as well. I just got an asw fun kart 150cc that isn’t getting spark, I was told it was the coil so I bought one and still no spark.

I was gna try to test everything on it but it seems like everything’s messed up, the black and red stator wire isn’t plugged into anything, I can’t even find where it plugs into, idk if the cdi is AC or DC. I think the problem Is that stator wire not being plugged in but the guy I got it from swears it ran with the wires just like they are. I don’t know too much about these things so Im hoping someone can help me out? Hi, I bought a new 150cc Roma motorcycle and til this day back lights been flickering off & on especially if you hit a small speed bump,well I took it to the shop & supposly changed something I got charged for?

I have a yerf dog go kart with a gy6 150cc engine. Stator has 60v at supply wire,.04v at trigger wire, cdi output is 35v and coil reistance is.05 ohms. When cdi out and ground are connected to coil, output from cdi drops to 1.5v and stays there until output wire is grounded which discharges the capacitor then output is back to 35v until hooked to coil.

Everything is disconnected except for the ignition system wires. Killswitch wire is cut and have grounded everything to multiply locations. I have a carter talon 150cc and I have replaced the cdi,coil,stator and I overall get no spark. One really odd thing I see that seems like a problem is that the performance cdi I bought has a light on it and when the key is in the off position it lights up and when it is in the on or cranking position the light goes off. So I did a voltage test to see what is lighting it up my green wire going into the cdi has 12 volts with the key off but when you crank the engine or turn the key to the on position there is no voltage at this green wire. I did a continuity beep test at this green wire in the on and crank position It has continuity to ground. Is it just me or should this wire not have 12 volts going to it while the key is off.

I would think it would just always be grounded. Hey out thereneed your help againput on new pick up coil/spark plug boot.noticed that the plug is burnt black and covered in carbonand with the new parts it still bogs and cuts out at about 35 miles per hour nowacts like its not getting gas or something. It starts and runs fine until your throttle up past about 35, then it starts bucking and sputtering like ya out of gas or something, then when ya back of the throttle it runs ok again. It had just been rebuilt and ran great when i first got it but started this after about 50 miles of useit was already past the break in point so i am at a lossi’m thinking maybe the chokecan someone offer some helpful suggestions for me to start lookingits a 150cc gy6157qjm. Arthur, all of the Kinroad models I’ve worked with use AC CDI’s.

Since you have the red/black wire it’s near certain that it’s an AC setup. Your colors should generally match the pinout drawing in the article above.

– Blue/Yellow to Pin #1 – The ignition coil (red/white?) to Pin #2 – Ground to pin #4 – Red/Back to Pin #6. That leaves the kill wire that goes to pin #5, which you’ll have to trace from the switch in the dash. If you need a more complete wiring diagram, our diagram for the Dazon 150 Classic would more closely match your Kinroad. Hello, I have a Baja ATV with no spark. I removed pin 5 (kill switch wire) from the CDI box connector. Still no spark.

Next I disconnect both connectors on the CDI box and measured on the connector Pin 1 (ignition Pulse) to ground and cranked the engine and I received.1 VAC. Next I Measured from pin 6 to ground and cranked the engine I measured 55VAC. Based on that information I thought the stator and pick up sensor were OK I re-connected the CDI box and measured the voltage to the coil and received 0 volts. I then added a additional ground wire from the frame to pin 3 still no voltage to the coil. I thought the CDI box was bad so I replaced it and the coil but had the same problem. One thing I did notice was the new CDI box was smaller (about 1/2″ shorter and 1/2″ narrower) The CDI box is a 6 pin rounded type connector. Ant suggestions?

Have you adjusted your valves lately? Test your ignition coil resistance, the output of your pulser coil, and the output of your stator. Refer to the article above. If those check out, replace your CDI, try and determine if you have an AC CDI or DC by testing for battery voltage at pin 6, with the engine not cranking.

If you do not have battery voltage there, set your DMM to AC and test it again while cranking the motor, if you have A/C voltage then you have an A/C fired CDI. My guess is it’s the CDI.

I have a 150cc Kart with no spark. I bought it this way. I have replaced the stator, replaced the pickup coil twice, replaced the CDI twice, and replaced the ignition coil. Every ignition part on it is new but there is no spark.

I also replaced the spark plug. You would assume it’s the wiring, well, even after all that I used wire from a harness I had (American car), and I soldered every wire to every component exactly like in the schematic and pinout diagram. I have worked with electronics my entire life, and have soldered for 30 years, so I know how to read a simple schematic and a pinout, everything is connected correctly. I double and triple checked because this is so frustrating.

I isolated the ignition system completely, and even created new, clean fresh grounds for everything, using only American wire, and soldering to the pigtail on the aftermarket racing CDI, so I used no connectors. Still no spark. Does the 6 pole stator use a special CDI or something? The stator has an output of 36 volts when cranking. 25 volts when connected to the CDI so the CDI is drawing some current. The pulser coil has an output of.2 VAC. Ignition coil ohms out as good, both of them do.

Yet I have no voltage out from any of the three CDI’s to the coil so I have no spark. Is it possible I have 2 brand new, bad CDI’s? I have one more CDI on order an orange racing one that specifically says it is AC fired. This is my last resort, aside from buying new everything, all over again. I have a 08 ShenkeGy6 150, my problems began after I replaced the stator, cdi.

It starts normally in the morning, after riding for 10 or 15 minutes better said when it’s warmed up, when starting from a stop and want to give it gas, it chokes and dies if you do not let go the throttle, so you have to start very slow until you get some speed, even after you are about 35 mph, and try to give it more engine sounds like backfiring. I’m running out of options I’ve noticed when idling the headlight is very dimmed, it was not like this before it fail? What should the voltage coming from the CDI to the coil be? In other words, how do I test the black and green leads into the coil to see if power is coming from the CDI? I have power into the CDI (85 VAC) and I have tested the coil but no spark. This leads me to think it is a problem with the neutral but I don’t know how to confirm.

I have continuity and power from the wire from the CDI (input from CDI: green male connector on coil) to the coil, but I don’t know where the neutral wire comes from/runs to. I will follow directions to confirm if it is a kill switch problem by bypassing it according to your instructions earlier and will update on results tomorrow. Hi I recently acquired a crossfire 150r GY6. It will not start. Turns over but no fire.

It sparked a couple times but not continuous. I ordered the electric tune up kit. I’ve tried the bypass switches and I ordered a new ignition switch. I know the battery is shot. I’ve been using a jump box to turn it over.

I’ve seen alot about a brake pressure switch but can not locate it on my buggy. Do the older ones have a switch? Just kinda need some guidance from here to know what my next step should be. Without just throwing parts at it.

No power to the coil on my Yerf Dog buggy and can’t figure out why. Followed the steps above (including bypassing switches) and got these results: Stator to CDI input: 68v to 71v Trigger wire to CDI:.5v to.1v CDI Ouput: 0.0v to 2.3v Replaced so far: CDI (two times), coil, spark plug, trigger. Swapped back in old parts, still no change. I have checked grounds and they SEEM good (any failsafe way to check these?). Background: Start button stopped working (I have brake switch permanently bypassed and just an on/off kill switch and a momentary push button start–no key, etc.).

Started jumping solenoid terminals to get it running. Ordered new solenoid and tune up kit. Replaced all.

Worked for a few starts. Then stopped firing. No and/or not not enough power to the coil out of the CDI. Can’t figure out why or what else to try. Performed tests noted here and have gotten mix of results. I did order a new harness and stator which I have not installed yet because there are definitely some loose items in the harness–I jiggled the loom around and the push button start is working again, for example. Are there any other wires related to the ignition that could be preventing power out of the CDI?

Or is there something else going on here? Desperate to get this running for my kids please help!

Tim, your voltages going into the CDI are healthy. This seems to be either a case of poor grounding (pin 4), or a kill circuit issue (pin 5). Use your multimeter to make sure that you have electrical continuity between pin 4 of the CDI, to any unpainted metal part of the engine.

That will resolve any grounding issues. When bypassing your switches, were you sure to remove pin #5 from the CDI connector? It needs to be disconnected altogether. After removing the pin, use your multimeter in the #5 connector socket to make sure there is.not. continuity to ground. Good morning all. Do we all have our thinking caps on?

Lend me your ears for Ive left mine behind Ok in all seriousness and funny quips aside, may I pick someone’s brain, and submit to a higher level of knowledge, and possible get taught a thing or two? Scenario: picked up older kaduna Lacoste 100cc wheeler, no Cdi box or connector, no coil, rotted(yes rotted) carb. After looking through a boat load of wiring diagrams and tracing/ looking, it was surmised that this unit originally had a 5 wire, AC cdi. Being Amazon savy, I found a 5 pin blue “racing” CDI module with a matching orange “high performance” coil for a whopping $9. Are they racing or high performance? “Same answer” The CSI had wires off of it, instead of a mounted plug.

TADAH no need to buy a plug, I’ve got soldering irons for days. 6 pin Ugh But never fear, according to all those diagrams I found, as long as this thing is still AC, all I need to do disregard, or double up one of the grounds. So power to power, trigger to trigger, ground and ground to ground, kill to kill, and output to coul, to my fancy new orange firebomb, and all should be well, right? Well no I’m seeing some very interesting readings, that leads me to believe I should’ve spent a few bucks extra.

Here we go: solid grounds to coil, engine and Cdi(cleaned, voltage drop tested, and bypassed for the sake of trying.) (Please keep in mind, this is not a multi-pole stator, rather a two piece, over-under bar style. One winding to power CDI, and a set of windings for the rectifier.) Stator winding to GND, open 55-57vac cranking, While connected to CDI: 5vac Trigger pickup to GND while cranking: open 0.30vac Connected to CDI: 0.38vac CDI to coil: open while cranking 3.7vac Connected to coil: 0.37vac Open, with both grounds to CDI disconnected: 50vac Coil resistance: 0.6 ohm Note none of the readings changed with the kill wire connected or disconnected. And above all this, I cannot get the coil to produce spark, even during a bench test. Also performed test with a second known good coil from a old Suzuki quadrunner(which bench tested fine) and could not get the CDI to fire it. Is it safe to assume that I’ve received an inferior cdi and coil pair?

Or should I be looking elsewhere? Thank you all for any input, and the little one will be grateful as well as I. Hey guys I’m really stuck and any help would be great. I have a kandi gka2 with a gy6 this is a dc model. I have a no spark issue. I have changed the cdi twice, the plug, the pickup, and coil. Still no spark.

Weirdest part is that I get a initial spark when I turn the key to the on position but nothing when cranking. I have bypassed all Kill switches and regrounded the engine and battery. I have tried it with rectifier on and off still same thing no spark when cranking. All voltage readings I can find appear to in spec.

Anyone got ideas what I missed it is really making me crazy.