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• Johnson 175 Tilt And Trim Fluid

1998 Evinrude 175hp won't tilt down - Moderated Discussion Areas               1998 Evinrude 175hp won't tilt down Author Topic:   1998 Evinrude 175hp won't tilt down Mike Brantley posted 10:22 PM ET (US)         Hey, folks. The subject line says most of it. I have a 1998 Evinrude OceanPro 175 on the back of my 1980 V-22 Revenge. I keep the motor tilted up to the maximum to keep everything out of the water in my wet slip.

Last week, I tried to lower the motor, but it would not go down. The tilt/trim motor does make sounds that sound normal to me, so I do not think there is an electrical problem. The fluid resevoir was filled to the appropriate level, so I don't think that's a problem. The screw that allows for manual lowering/lifting won't budge, so I have been unable to lower the motor to see if something will 'catch' and start working again. I plan to trailer the boat to my mechanic Monday morning unless somebody can think of something simple I've overlooked.

I had to rely on my kicker to get me from the marina where we keep the boat to a nearby marina that has a launch ramp to retrieve the boat. Got there OK, but then my problem was that the water level was so low (winds from the north plus the season have resulted in lower than normal tides here) that I backed the trailer too far and got one wheel stuck in a hole off the end of the concrete ramp. Ended up having the marina owner come in on his off day to lift my trailer out of the water with a backhoe.

Then my problem became losing almost all braking power on my tow vehicle, a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. That was an interesting ride home with the boat behind me. I'm just glad I didn't end up with the whole rig in the water or in an accident! It's a week later, and I just picked up the Jeep. It needed a new brake master cylinder and booster. Now, I have a tow vehicle to get me to the outboard mechanic, but I am $400 poorer because of the auto repairs.

Anyway, a easy, quick and cheap remedy for the outboard problem would be great! Jimh posted 10:36 PM ET (US)             Mike-These are somewhat dumb answers, but I will offer them in the faint hope that perhaps you overlooked these: -there is a small tilt lock mechanism at the very top of the midsection which can lock the engine in the full-up position. I actually just noticed this device rather recently; I was not aware it was there. I usually use the trailer tilt arm to support the engine, not this full-tilt up lock. Is there any chance this became engaged by accident? -the engine has been tilted up for a long time and it might be rusted in place! Is that possible?

Perhaps it just needs a shot of WD-40 on the tilt tube to break it free. Well, as I said, not the best answers. You are probably way ahead of me on this. But sometimes when one things goes wrong, it upsets the normal course of things and you might be overlooking something simple like this. Derf posted 10:40 PM ET (US)             Yes, there should be a small lever or metal bar looking thing that serves to lock the outboard in the up position. Some people use it for trailering to take the load off of the trim cylinder. It seems like they are on the port side, IIRC.

Will your motor go up? If it goes up some and then won't go down past a certain point, then it could likely be the little lever. Derf posted 10:41 PM ET (US)             If you can't get it down then get a new four stroke and give me that old thing. Mike Brantley posted 12:05 AM ET (US)             Thanks, guys, for your speedy replies. I see I'm not the only one staying up late on a holiday weekend evening thinking of boats and messing with a computer! Jim, I was hoping someone would think of something so simple that I would quote Homer Simpson and say 'Doh!'

Unfortunately, the tilt lock mechanism isn't engaged - unless there is another one I'm overlooking. The mechanism I am thinking about is actually quite sizable, but I guess that is relative.

I do have the owner's manual (Thanks, Sue, at Twin Cities Marine for getting me that.) and a Clymer shop manual. While looking for the tilt lock mechanism, I found something that I thought was it before learning in the Clymer book that I had found the sending unit for the trim gauge.

It's plastic and looks sort of like a lever. The real lock mechanism is metal and what I would call substantial in size. Holler if you still think I may be overlooking something along those lines. The thing worked perfectly the week prior, so if it's rusted in place the corrosion happened very quickly. But I will note there is rust apparent on the outside of the tilt motor housing. That might not bode well, though it looks superficial.

I'm leaning toward a sheared pump drive shaft or coupler at this point, as suggested by the Clymer book. Derf, thanks. No, the motor will not move in either direction - not even a little bit. Not planning on a four-stroke purchase, but if I was to come into some money tomorrow I'd put a Evinrude E-Tec 200 on this boat in a heartbeat. But, got no money for that and the current motor still runs too well to discard.

(Darn it!) mtbadfish posted 12:15 AM ET (US)             Mike, I had a similar problem on a 1999 175hp Johnson. Here is the thread with some really good advice.

My solution was strange in that a friend held the down switch for a while and then hit the up and it started to work. Hope it helps. Mike Brantley posted 12:45 AM ET (US)             Thanks.

That last suggestion sent me outside to hold down some buttons.:) Didn't work, but it did set all the dogs in the neighborhood to barking! I used the opportunity to listen and to feel, and the tilt motor sounds and feels (hand on the housing) like it's working and is strong, just nothing is happening as far as movement of the outboard.

All clues point to something being sheared off inside, I think. I will report back what the problem was, because I hate it when these threads don't have an 'ending.'

Thanks, guys, and good night. Peter posted 07:05 AM ET (US)             Mike, what do the two side rams do when you push the trim button up and down? Do they retract all the way in? Do they extend out? Mike Brantley posted 08:56 AM ET (US)             Mornin', Peter. Stayed up late, then a 2-year-old got me up early. (grin) She's marveling at the Christmas tree now.

Anyway, the two rams don't move at all, and they appear to be extended out all the way. Does that tell me anything? Peter posted 10:23 AM ET (US)             If you hold the trim button down for the typical time it takes to lower the motor from fully tilted to fully down with the tilt lock in place, the two side rams should retract into their housings. If they don't retract, then then there is a problem within the trim and tilt unit. If they do retract, I would guess something is preventing the motor from tilting down such as a tilt lock or the tilt tube freezing up.

Mike Brantley posted 11:28 AM ET (US)             The evidence is mounting, then, that something sheared off or otherwise went awry inside the tilt unit. Like I said, it sounds normal, just nothing on the outside moves.

So I think the motor is turning OK and there are no electrical, hydraulic or corrosion in the tilt tube issues. I'll report back after the mechanic gets his look-see. I'll also ask him to do what he can to free up the manual release pin (flat screw head), which will not budge. Mike Brantley posted 07:42 PM ET (US)             Actually, this may take longer to reach a resolution. The tow vehicle (aforementioned 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee) will not run. It starts and then almost immedialy dies.

($1,500 in repairs sincle July, but all unrelated to this particular problem!!!) So I have to get the Jeep operational before the boat can be put back into commission. Somebody come and buy my other boat so I can have the cash to keep the rest of the fleet of land and sea vehicles running! Mike Brantley posted 07:43 PM ET (US)             Err. Immediately is what I meant to type. Clark Roberts posted 07:53 AM ET (US)             Check for proper fluid level and then Try this: loosen the manual release screw (slot screwdriver actuated and should be labeled.on mid section housing) and lower all the way down. Pull up and down (takes some real strength) a few times and then tighten up the screw and try to raise/lower with buttons.

Sometimes a check valve gets stuck and this can free everything up. At next fluid top off add a couple of oz. Of 'automatic transmission fluid conditioner' (available at any auto store) for good measure. Spruce Creek Navy Martman posted 12:01 PM ET (US)             Mike, The same thing happened to me except I was in the water. I did what Clark suggested. I leaned over and loosened the manual release screw and the motor lowered all the way. I tightened the screw and off I went.

The trim has worked perfectly ever sense. Marty Mike Brantley posted 12:19 PM ET (US)             Thanks, guys. I wish I could turn that manual release valve (3 and a half turns CCW is supposed to open it), but it will not budge at all. I chipped a piece off the flat screw head notch trying to turn it, after having soaked it with WD40 trying to loosen it.

I have not tried applying heat to it. Not sure if that would be a good idea. I don't want to destroy thing trying to open it. Meantime, I have studied the process of replacing the trim motor in the Clymer manual, and it doesn't look difficult. The hardest part looks like it would be removing the whole tilt/trim assembly to gain access to all four screws holding on the trim motor.

It looks like I can get a new motor (an Arco replacement of the OMC part) for $170 or so via the Internet. I'm not saying I definately need a new trim motor to fix this problem, but the exterior of my existing trim motor does have a fair amount of corrosion on it.

I may still let my mechanic look at the problem, but I'm in a forced holding pattern while I have no tow vehicle. Contender25 posted 12:59 PM ET (US)             The manual release valves on the OMC fastrack tilt trim units are terrible. Do not heat it as there are 3 o-rings on the shaft of the pin and you will destroy them if heated too hot.

If you are going to replace the pin, and I suggest that, go for it they cost $75-80 it may be the root of your problem as it was mine this past summer. Contender25 posted 01:16 PM ET (US)             take 2 A tad more info Like you, early last summer my 1996 225 Evinrude would not go down and I could not remove/move the manual release pin. Another symptom the engine had was: in reverse it would come to the surface, nothing like backing down and seeing your lower unit on the surface. Fluid was fine, trim motor was rusted but operated fine, the only visable issue was a mangled release valve. I took the entire assembly off the engine. Athough daunting it is easy, remove the top and bottom pins, disconnect wiring and trim sensor and the entire unit drops out. Once out I had to drill out the manual release pin as it was fused to the housing.

Once this pin was out I could see the issue, one of the 'O' rings on the pin was deteriorated and had clogged a valve passage. Replaced the pin and we have been fine since. The OMC dealer I purchased the pin from told me it was a common failure. Mike Brantley posted 01:28 PM ET (US)             Aha.! The plot thickens. That's good info, Contender.

It sounds like I definately want to replace that manual release pin no matter what. Once replaced, I wonder if frequent turning of that pin will keep it from fusing into place. I don't know what this mechanism is like on other outboards, but I wish it had a big handle or lever on it instead of a little screw head. I can't get any leverage on it, and now the top is partially mangled in the form of that missing chip.

How, specifically, did you drill it out? Answer like you are talking to an idiot.:) No, I'm not committed to doing it myslef, but suddenly I have more time to ponder the problem before solving it. Contender25 posted 01:54 PM ET (US)             Hello Mike- I took a small carbide drill bit and drilled a series of 3-4 inline holes into the area where the screw drive slot was located.

About 2mm deep after drilling these holes I used a chisel to turn the 3-4 holes into another slot. Unlike the original set up that was open ended you now have a slot that is sorounded by metal.

Into the newly made slot I used a manual inpact driver with a flat head scre driver bit and beat the valve out. PB Blaster and patience are your friend on this one. I agree 100% this pin should be more substantial, but more so the housing it is in should shed water more efficiantly.

Yes frequuent turning is a good idea, not even so much to move the engine but just enough to keep it from seizing. Mike Brantley posted 02:28 PM ET (US)             Good info. The procedure you are describing sounds much more practical than what I was imagining, so I appreciate the details. Cc13 posted 02:49 PM ET (US)             On my yamaha, the manual release screw turns clockwise.

Steve Leone posted 05:25 PM ET (US)             Yamaha is different. It is also held in by a weak c clip. Mike, I have a spare used tilt / trim unit here but the plastic resivoir cracked.

You could use the resivoir from yours. The release screw works fine as does the rest of the unit. It needs a paint job. You are welcome to it if you pay the post plus lunch.

Steve Mike Brantley posted 05:36 PM ET (US)             Steve, your offer sounds great. I'll shoot you an e-mail when I get home this evening. Already have the paint in hand, as I was rehabilitating a cowling. Steve Leone posted 10:01 PM ET (US)             Mike, got it packed and will send it out tommorow. Steve Mike Brantley posted 10:04 AM ET (US)             Awesome, Steve.

Appreciate it very much. Mike Brantley posted 12:41 AM ET (US)             The tilt/trim assembly arrived today, Steve.

It was very well packed. Thank you very much. I'm still undecided about whether to do this work myself or have my mechanic do it. At the very least I may take the old tilt/trim assembly off myself so the motor will go down.

Probably isn't that much harder to put the other one on, so we'll see. Meanwhile, the tow vehicle is operational once again.

Johnson 175 Tilt And Trim Fluid

I don't know if I'm getting ahead in this game, but I'm at least staying even! In my Revenge down time, I've managed to put some time on my other boat, the 15 Sport I had for sale in Marketplace. Having reminded myself how much fun the little boat is, I've changed my mind about splitting the fleet.

Every boat is for sale, I'm told, but now I'm not trying so hard. Mike Brantley posted 10:58 PM ET (US)             The tilt/trim assembly that Steve sent me is installed and working perfectly. I ended up taking the boat to my usual mechanic to get this done since I was running into too much trouble and too little time. Thanks again, Steve! That's the good news. The bad news is that something else is wrong with my motor that may very well force me into repowering this boat much, much sooner than planned.

I will detail this problem in a separate thread. Meanwhile, the prospect of a forced repower looming, I suppose the smaller boat is back on the market. I'm not going to be able to keep both boats, it doesn't look like.

See the thread in Marketplace, as referenced above.

Please verify this is the right part number you need before ordering. We are electrical specialists; if you have questions, please call us, or email for fast friendly service! Replaces these part numbers: API MARINE PT303NM, PT607NM ARCO MARINE 6241 ARROWHEAD TRM0039 EMP PARTS 4-6780 J & N 430-22025 LESTER 10816, 10817 OMC 434495, 434496, 438529, 438531 PROTORQUE PH200-T006 SIERRA MARINE 18-6780 WAI 10816N-L, 10816N-S, 82-7854, 82-7856 YAMAHA 64E-43880-00-00, 64E-43880-01-00, 67H-43880-00-00, 67H-43880-04-00.