Value priced 2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L SE for sale in Springfield MA. -Way Driver Seat -inc: Manual Lumbar Support. Manual Air Conditioning. Jul 25, 2013 - My wife had been complaining that the A/C in 'her' car, a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, didn't seem to be working as well as it used to. I figured it.

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We live in Arizona and needless to say, during the summer it tends to get a little warm; it's a dry heat they say. My wife had been complaining that the A/C in 'her' car, a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, didn't seem to be working as well as it used to. I figured it probably needed a recharge and all would be well again. Well, we didn't have a chance to get it in the shop before we left on our trip to Flagstaff for the 4th of July weekend but we figured it'd be okay until we got back. Wouldn't you know it though shortly after we started out, the A/C wasn't working very well at all. It worked reasonably well if we were traveling 40 mph or more but when we slowed down or stopped, it started blowing warm air. I-17 between Phoenix and Flagstaff can be very busy during holiday weekends and the chances of getting stuck in a traffic jam are pretty high.

Before we got very far, we decided to go back home, transfer everything from the Santa Fe to our truck and use that for the weekend. We'd worry about the A/C when we get back. The weekend went well and we had a lot of fun but the weekend came to an end and as usual the hand of reality slapped us into the first day of the work week. So.that meant I had to do something about the A/C.

I took it to a shop, they checked out the A/C and told me everything was working well except that it was.5 lbs low on refrigerant. The system capacity is 1.3 lbs. So.5 lbs low is significant.

For $160 and some pocket change they evacuated the system to get out all the air and water and refilled with refrigerant, oil, and a dye to help find future leaks. It worked better after that but it still wasn't 100%. At stop lights, it would still blow warm air. Once we got moving again, it would blow cool air again after a couple minutes. Well, apparently everything was NOT working well.

I'm not a professional mechanic but I'm pretty handy. I do most of the maintenance and repair on our cars, home, appliances, etc. Although I have almost zero experience with A/C, I decided to look at it myself.

Five minutes of research on the Internet revealed that the most common reason for A/C blowing warm air at idle is a condenser fan that's not working. It took some looking to find the condenser and condenser fan.

The condenser is located in front of the radiator on the driver's side, the fan is located behind the radiator. The condenser looks similar to a small radiator. I started the car, turned on the A/C and never saw the fan run. That made me wonder why the engine didn't overheat. More research revealed that there is also a fan located in front of the radiator on the passenger side; this is the radiator fan. This one was running.

WARNING: Both fans are electric. On some cars these fans can start at any time, even when the car is turned off, so keep your fingers and anything else you value away from them. Disconnect the battery or the fan connector if you need to work directly on the fan. More Internet research was done to find out what could cause the fan not to run. Most of what I found was related to fuses under the dash, and fuses, fusible links, and relays under the hood.

The first thing I decided to check was voltage at the fan. If there's voltage at the fan that pretty much narrows it down to a bad fan. I could't get the fan connector apart so I checked voltage by sticking two pins in the wires of the fan harness. Checked all fuses, fusible links, and relays and all tested good. Pulled the connector off of the temp sensor which should start the fan if everything else is good. No go, the fan just sat there. Now I was stumped, not much else except wiring and the thought of troubleshooting that didn't appeal to me at all.

It bothered me that the fan connector wouldn't come apart so I decided to get that apart even if I broke it in the process. I figured if it breaks, I'll splice it. I pried one side with a screwdriver and heard a slight snap. Did the same to the other side and also heard a snap. After that, it slid apart easily. I checked voltage at the supply side of the connector and read 12 volts. Now I'm getting somewhere!

I have voltage on one side of the connector but not the other? Further inspection revealed that the inside of the plug was melted; possibly due to a bad connection that caused excessive resistance. Put current through resistance and it creates heat. Put enough current through enough resistance and it creates too much heat. Many plastics don't like heat. From that mumbo jumbo you'd never know that I have a degree in electronics but I don't want people dozing off before they finish reading.

I removed the condenser fan relay so that no power would be at the connector. Then I cut the leads off of both sides of the connector and bought some weatherproof crimp butt connectors from Checker. With the power disconnected, it's a good time to check the fan to make sure it turns freely. I spliced the now connector-less wires with the butt conectors. The fan worked. I let it idle for 10 to 15 minutes and the condenser fan ran continuously and the A/C blew cold the entire time. Then I wrapped it tight with electrical tape and zip-tied it to the bracket where the connector was located.

Thank you so much for this article! I think I would still be dealing with this issue if it wasn't for this article detailing the issue. It sounds like I got the run around like many Hyundai owners. I have a 2013 Tuscon Hyundai. I was fortunate to have a warranty that covered all the needless stuff they wanted to do.

I don't know anything about cars, but you don't have to know a lot about cars to know when your AC stops working at the stop lights!! At one point, they tried to tell me it was fine after running diagnostics. They took me to the shop where they had my vehicle running to show me it was fine. Low and behold, it was still blowing hot air. I'm like, 'well, I don't know about you but this sure feels hot to me!!' Long story short, they had my vehicle for about 2 weeks. They replaced the compressor twice in addition to other random parts.yes, twice.

Without his blessing, I asked the receptionist for the master mechanics email address. I sent him this article. When everything he did failed, he finally looked at the article. He admitted this article was accurate and said the compressor probably never needed replaced.oh really, who said that from the start?!? My son's air conditioning stopped working.

We noticed prior to that it was leaking refrigerant. The leak was getting worse and worse as he needed to put it in every week. We did put in the one with the stop leak but that didn't work. Now the air conditioning doesn't work at all. We were told by a mechanic that we needed a new compressor.

After reading your article and comments I'm wondering if it's just a connector problem. This has seem to be the problem with a lot of people so this is why I'm questioning a new air compressor. It's a 2004 Hyundai sonata glad. We were quoted $680 to replace the compressor but don't want to replace it if it's only the connector. How would you be able to tell if it's just the connector or not? Since I know nothing about cars how do you suggest I mention this to my mechanic without questioning his ability as a car mechanic?

I have a 2007 Huyndia Tuson. I been having problems with my car's air conditioning. The ac was blowing well on all air speeds. Then the problem started, the blower stopped working and no ac. I would drive for 10-12 mins when it sould come on. Now it doesn't come on at all the blower and ac.

I took the car to Sears and low and behold it worked when they started, Sears told me that it must be a wire short that I need to take it a Hyundia dealer. As soon as I drove away from Sears the ac stopped working.any suggestions.Yes I have read your column it may help. Thanks for any advice Zac. Sorry for the delay. I think you meant the connector to the condensor fan, not the condensor. I don't know what your shop found but if the problem is indeed the connector for the fan, it's very easy to access with no more than opening the hood.

It may be that they want to replace part of the wiring harness and install a new connector so that it's OEM or maybe they want to replace the whole fan which might require dropping the condensor. Either option is the 'right way' to do it I suppose but given the number of people that have read this article (60,000+), it's a common problem which in my opinion means that it's a design issue with the connector. A new one will eventually burn up again unless Hyundai has redesigned the part. That's why I elected to use butt connectors. It's not pretty but it works. Keep in mind that I'm not a professional mechanic.

I'm just a guy with an aptitude for many things mechanical, electrical, and electronic who has been building and fixing things for 40+ years. But in that 40+ years I've found that just because someone does something for a living, doesn't prove that they're always right or good at it. Good luck, I hope you get the problem fixed. So if its a bad connector to the condenser as was diagnosed used on my 2005 Santa Fe then how did you get to it without dropping the whole condenser like the shop wants to do for 350.if you all could do it why can't he??

Just curious hoping to save a little,money on this connector repair to flush and charge AC refrigerant after the connector is fixed. ( all parts checked out ok after I made my mechanic read this first and he said I was right its just the connector and a second wanted 1400 to replace everything and I just laughed thanks for the article ). For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons. Login This is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service. Google Recaptcha This is used to prevent bots and spam.

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I have a 2013 Sonata, purchased it Oct. Caterpillar 3508 engine manual pdf. 2012 In May 2013, I took it in 3 times because AC would not cool. Ended up having the entire system replaced. May 2014 it would not cool Again, took it back, this time they said it needed coolant.Really?

Guess where it is right now.May 2015 and it isn't cooling and I am HOT! Was chatting with a waiter over wkend, he has a 2014 and is having AC issues also. I've had several ac parts (compressor, plumbing from firewall to condenser) replaced under warranty. Make sure they check the ac expansion valve mounted on the firewall. It is known to fail (Part# is 97626-3R000).

Also you may have a leak in the condenser if you continue to lose coolant. My leak was at a flange in the plumbing near the compressor. My AC has never worked well since buying the car March 2012. I brought into the dealership three separate times complaining about the AC with CND as a response. On the fourth time the dealership sabotaged my condenser and wanted $790 to fix it. I was so fed up with them I did it myself.

See my thread on it Even after the fix I still experience the same problem as most of the other posters blowing warm air and then once in a while it goes cold. I like the suggestion that the compressor coil may need to be shimmed. I also found that both Schrader valves leak a small amount using my leak detector but the dust caps have to be off. With the o-ringed dust caps I can intermittently detect a leak on the highest sensitivity setting. One other thing I noticed that no one else mentioned was when I set the temperature control I can hear the stepper motor moving the vane in the duct.

The last five steps don't make a noise. So I speculate that the blend door may not be sealing the heat off all the way and letting too much hot air in.

The dealership told me it is normal for heat to get in through the system. I tend to agree that some hot air is going to leak past the blend door but with the AC off and just unconditioned air on the temperature rise is 12-15 F above the outside temperature.