Jan 26, 2016 Here you will find the Most Complete Service Repair Manual for the 1969 johnson 40 hp outboard 1.5HP-40HP 1 & 2 Cylinder 2 Stroke workshop service repair manual Download ever compiled by mankind. This file holds of high quality diagrams and instructions on how to service and repair your Johnson Evinrude Outboards. If you want to DO IT YOURSELF – this is your download! Instant Download and Bring good luck for you!

• Factory Kawasaki Service Manual Kz 1000 1977

Check the factory service manual for recommendations on oil volume. That to the spec listed in your Kawasaki service manual. Lf the springs are too short,.

Aug 5, 2015 This 2007 Evinrude E-TEC 40,50,60 HP manual is written for qualified, factory-trained technicians who are already familiar with the use of Evinrude®/Johnson® Special Tools. This manual is not a substitute for work experience. It is an organized guide for reference, repair, and maintenance of the outboard(s). This is the same manual dealerships use to repair your Evinrude E-TEC 40,50,60 HP. Instant Download. Instant Download.

Instant Download. $9.99 More Files From This User. Troubleshooting can be defined as a methodical process during which one discovers what is causing a problem with engine operation. Although it is often a feared process to the uninitiated, there is no reason to believe that you cannot figure out what is wrong with a motor, as long as you follow a few basic rules.

To begin with, troubleshooting must be systematic. Haphazardly testing one component, then another, might uncover the problem, but it will more likely waste a lot of time.

True troubleshooting starts by defining the problem and performing systematic tests to eliminate the largest and most likely causes first. Start all troubleshooting by eliminating the most basic possible causes. Begin with a visual inspection of the boat and motor. If the engine won’t crank; make sure that the kill switch or safety lanyard is in the proper position. Make sure there is fuel in the tank and the fuel system is primed before condemning the carburetor or fuel injection system. On electric start motors, make sure there are no blown fuses, the battery is fully charged, and the cable connections (at both ends) are clean and tight before suspecting a bad starter, solenoid or switch. The majority of problems that occur suddenly can be fixed by simply identifying the one small item that brought them on.

A loose wire, a clogged passage or a broken component can cause a lot of trouble and are often the cause of a sudden performance problem. The next most basic step in troubleshooting is to test systems before components. For example, if the engine doesn’t crank on an electric start motor, determine if the battery is in good condition (fully charged and properly connected) before testing the starting system. If the engine cranks, but doesn’t start, you know already know the starting system and battery (if it cranks fast enough) are in good condition, now it is time to look at the ignition or fuel systems. Once you’ve isolated the problem to a particular system, follow the troubleshooting/testing procedures in the section for that system to test either subsystems (if applicable, for example: the starter circuit) or components (starter solenoid). Troubleshooting Electronic Fuel Injection and Ignition On carbureted outboards fuel is metered through needles and valves that react to changes in engine vacuum as the amount of air drawn into the motor increases or decreases. The amount of air drawn into carbureted motors is controlled through throttle plates that effectively increase or decrease the size of the carburetor throat (as they are rotated open or closed).

In contrast, fuel injected engines use a computer control module to regulate the amount of fuel introduced to the motor. The control unit or Electronic Management Module (EMM) monitors input from various engine sensors in order to receive precise data on items like engine position (where each piston is on its 2-stroke cycle), overall engine speed, air or engine temperatures, exhaust and barometric pressure and throttle position. Analyzing the data from these sensors tells the EMM exactly how much air is drawn into the motor at any given moment and allows it to determine how much fuel is required (as well as how much oil and what ignition timing curves to use). The EMM will hammer pulse the fuel injectors (activating them repeatedly up to 100 times per combustion cycle for a single cylinder) to spray metered amounts of the oil/fuel mixture needed for optimum performance with minimum emissions. This electronically controlled, precisely metered fuel spray or “fuel injection” is the heart of the FIGHT fuel injection system and.the main difference between a fuel injected and carburetor motor.

Troubleshooting a fuel injected motor contains similarities to carbureted motors. Mechanically, the powerhead of a 2-stroke fuel injected motor operates in the same way as a carbureted 2-stroke. There still must be good engine compression for either engine to operate properly. Wear or physical damage will have virtually the same affect upon either motor.

Furthermore, the low-pressure fuel system that supplies fuel to the reservoir in the vapor separator tank operates in the same manner as the fuel circuit that supplies gasoline to the carburetor float bowl (on non-oil injected models). The major difference in troubleshooting engine performance on FIGHT motors is the presence of the EMM and electronic engine controls. The complex interrelation of the sensors used to monitor engine operation and the EMM used to control the fuel, oil injection, and ignition systems makes logical troubleshooting all that much more important. Before beginning troubleshooting on a FIGHT motor, make sure the basics are all true. Make sure the engine mechanically has good compression (refer to the Compression Check procedure that is a part of a regular Tune-Up). Make sure the fuel is not stale.

Check for leaks or restrictions in the Lines and Fittings of the low-pressure fuel circuit, as directed in this section under Fuel Tank and Lines. FIGHT systems cannot operate properly unless the circuits are complete and a sufficient voltage is available from the battery and charging systems. A quick-check of the battery state of charge and alternator output with the engine running will help determine if these conditions are adversely affecting FICHT operation. Jun 4, 2015 This is complete service repair manual pdf you will need to properly fix your Evinrude 200, 225, 250,300 HP V6 E-TEC Outboard in no-time. This is the exact same workshop manual the factory technicians are using to troubleshoot and repair these 2010 Evinrude 200, 225, 250,300 HP V6 E-TEC. Added to cart Number of pages available: 342 This manual is compatible with iPad, iPhone, iPod Touch and Android phones and tablets capable of reading PDF files File Size: 22.78 Mb Approximate Download Times: – Connection 156.6Kb/s: 4 Min. – Connection 2512Kb/s: 28 sec.

– Connection 1.5Mbps: 10 sec. If you see missing pages in PDF manual – they were deleted blank pages.

GPZ 1100 Manufacturer Production 1981-1984 1,089 cc (66.5 cu in) 4 cylinders in line, 4-stroke air/oil cooling / 72.5 mm × 66 mm (2.85 in × 2.60 in) 8.9:1 Top speed 217 km/h (135 mph) 81-82 78 kW (105 hp) (claimed) 67 kW (90 hp) (rear wheel) 83-on 89 kW (120 hp) 78 kW (104 hp) @ 8,500rpm (rear wheel) 99 N⋅m (73 lb⋅ft) 5-speed, chain final drive Seat height 805 mm (31.69 in) Weight 250 kg (550 lb) The Kawasaki GPZ1100 is a that was manufactured by from 1981 to 1984. All four models featured and 1,089 cc engines.

All were short lived and were an attempt to fill a market segment that was rapidly changing. Main article: The 1981 GPz1100 was the first 1,100 cc motorcycle released by Kawasaki. It was officially marketed as the GPz1100 B1. Its frame design was a typical cradle design and the engine was based on the new z1000J motor, fitted with plain main bearings, but the engine capacity was increased to 1,089 cc.

Factory Kawasaki Service Manual Kz 1000 1977

Stated '.the big Kawi went well, with standing quarters in just over 11 seconds at 119mph, fastest in its class at the time.' Rather than featuring carburetors, the B1 was fitted with (EFI) a Bosch-derived Nissan fuel injection as used on the earlier 1980 Z1000G/H models. Suspension and braking was similar to earlier models; the front forks featured 38 mm tubes, the frame design, based on the 1981 J model, was made from larger diameter steel in the section between the steering head to rear of the tank. To reduce weight, the tube walls were thinner.

It weighed 255 kg (562 lb) with a full tank of fuel, and the power output was claimed to be 108 bhp (81 kW). The B2 featured a cockpit fairing, the use of LCD warning lights and improved engine coating using a black chrome finish instead of the previous black paint. Kawasaki was serious about having the best Superbike, and the B2 was changed in several significant ways over its predecessor. The engine output was increased by increasing the valve lift from 8.3 mm to 8.7 mm, and valve duration was increased from 280 degrees to 288 degrees to boost upper-end horsepower. The early BOSCH-type open-loop analog fuel injection was scrapped, and a new closed-loop digital fuel injection (DFI) was used in its place. The new system did not use an airflap to measure airflow, but a digital microprocessor, a series of sensors, and a throttle position sensor to meter the fuel much more accurately, eliminate throttle lag, and decrease emissions.

The suspension calibration was all-new for 1982, to make the big GPz an even better handler both on the track and on the street. The fork had slightly stiffer springs, and compression and rebound damping were increased approximately 10%.

In the rear, the Kayaba shocks used the same springs, but with greater pre-load, and the compression damping was effectively doubled. And each of the rebound adjustments offered 30% more damping than its '81 counterpart. Wider, Dunlop K300 tires replaced the Bridgestone tires used on the B1 to improve handling and steering response.

1983 ZX1100-A1 In 1983 a new GPz1100 design was released that featured Unitrack single suspension, anti-dive units on the forks and a major styling overhaul often called the 'swish' look. Known as the model, the 1983 model featured a larger fairing (with a lower fairing section as an option to give a full race fairing), different instrumentation and a warning panel mounted on the redesigned petrol tank.

This model contained many features that were to appear on the model leading to the suspicion that it was used to test the acceptability of newer technology such as Unitrack and Anti-Dive forks and the newer styling. The 1983 model featured the same EFI design with a few small modifications, such as the inclusion of a warning light that flashed service codes when the DFI system was having a problem, a rev-limiter, and a 'limp' mode that would allow the engine to keep running if one of the sensors failed. The engine design changed in the 1983 model to use underbucket shims similar to the z650 and the camshaft duration was increased from 288 degrees to 300 degrees, and the valve lift increased from 8.7mm to 9.5mm. To flow more air, the head was revised extensively from the earlier model, featuring new ports, a 'bathtub' combustion chamber borrowed from their own S2 racer, and a 1mm larger intake valve recessed into the head slightly for valve clearance. The power output was now claimed to be 120 bhp (89 kW) at 8,750 rpm. CYCLE magazine recorded 104 rear-wheel horsepower on their dynamometer, and Kawasaki was hoping to have a solid 10-second quarter-mile machine.

Reported 'Cycle took the revised GPz1100 to the strip and restored its crown as the fastest 1100 in a straight line, with a standing quarter that broke into the 10s.' 1984 ZX1100-A2 In 1984 the last GPz1100 was released, competition from sales of the released in 1984 had surpassed the GPz1100, so the 1100 was discontinued.

The 1984 model deviated little from the 1983 model but featured a new paint scheme called 'Galaxy Silver'; the original Firecracker Red scheme was still available. Revisions were minor and include a revised exhaust system and the addition of panels under the instrument cluster. Sales were now in direct competiotion to the smaller, lighter, water-cooled GPz900R model, which by the end of 1984 would win first, second and third place in the Isle of Man TT races. Later models.